Bistrot Blaise
As if it were always meant to be
Barely two and a half years into its existence, stepping into Bistrot Blaise in the heart of Marche-en-Famenne is like being welcomed with nothing but smiles and warmth. In the establishment run by François-Xavier Simon and Hanna Matyja, there's an ultimate desire to create a true atmosphere of goodwill, a clear sense of hospitality that immediately wins over the guest. It’s a sort of “we’re going to take care of you” that perfectly captures the spirit of these remarkable innkeepers, in the noblest sense of the term. You’d have to have a hardened, cold heart not to be swept up in their welcoming dance.
A child of the region, FX's path is paved with golden letters: Hotel School in Namur, Georges V in Paris, then the kitchens of Joël Robuchon and ‘Il Pagliaccio’ in Rome, before spending twelve years with the man who will forever be his mentor, Pierre Gagnaire. Hanna, a heartfelt companion in certainties and doubts, shines in the dining room with a lively service; she, born in Poland, moved from her homeland to Deauville, then Paris and the George V, where her smile and joy of life still resonate.
The Bistrot Blaise project was born, took shape, and grew during the lockdown. These suspended moments have the beauty of allowing time to settle, permitting minds to breathe, ideas to germinate, and projects to be born. Bringing to life the realm of possibilities, these strong and well-inspired souls chose to show that something can be created from nothing.
Returning to his roots, his land, and his family, FX’s journey led him back to his grandmother, the Mamie who once ran a grocery store, one of those small shops filled with great treasures we all had nearby. A grandmother to whom crowds flocked during hunting season to find the finest game. Cherished nostalgia.
From FX Simon's kitchen, beyond a deep nature and rare identity, you sense an openness to the whole world; as if the man had absorbed all the terroirs, all the spices, and all the flavors of the world. A feeling nurtured by these little details, those tiny things that capture us, surprise us, and take us away unexpectedly; here a delicate spice, there a well-balanced acidity. A cuisine brilliantly conceived and executed with passion by a young brigade, entirely marked by the personality of its chef: full of flavor, radiant in its soul, clear, audacious, and controlled, where every element contributes to the whole. Brilliant.
Absolute favorites include the start with the Ancelin Oyster, Umami radish, plum vinegar, and the Fish brandade and pig’s trotter croquettes with cocktail sauce as a prelude to sharing. The total pleasure continues with the Marinated then seared mackerel fillets, white tuna cream with sesame, braised daikon radish Japanese-style, green beans, soba with fresh herbs; the Fricassée of rabbit sautéed to order, grilled corn and Roquefort velouté, Grenoble-style pak choi, blackberry bigarade; the Plancha-grilled red mullet fillets, grilled fennel, and potatoes, all tied together with a bouillabaisse sauce melba, rouille, zucchini veiled with Colonnata lard, cuttlefish, pesto; and the 'Surf & Turf,' Rib-eye steak and Blue Lobster, braised lettuce, fried padrón peppers, broccoli mousseline, horseradish, pommes paille, and Choron sauce.
There are men who create connections between products, plates, and emotions, our emotions. It feels like a return to life, as if it were always meant to be.
LD