Divino Gusto
A fresh breeze has settled firmly over Divino Gusto.
The place remains discreet, shunning unnecessary ostentation. There is no attempt to dazzle, just a conscious choice for subtlety. A few seventies touches to stay in tune with the era, a strong chromatic unity, and a formal language that embraces simplicity. But that is where the visual spectacle ends, for the essence lies elsewhere.
The entrance opens directly onto the kitchen, and this is no coincidence—it is the beating heart of Divino Gusto. Here, in full transparency, Marc Grislain works his magic. This chef, both a meticulous watchmaker when it comes to cooking techniques and a passionate maestro when handling top-quality ingredients, creates a cuisine that is both flavourful and refined. A cuisine that feels perfectly in sync with the present, offering dishes that invigorate and speak a contemporary language.
A fresh breeze, I said, but perhaps storm would be a more fitting word, given the transformation Marc Grislain has brought to this fine establishment in Nivelles. Having honed his craft in prestigious Brussels institutions such as Bozar Restaurant and Villa Lorraine, the young Brabant chef now channels his energy and creative force into leading the Divino team. He is supported by the exceptional Sébastien Van der Beeten, formerly known for his restaurant Anarchy in Zaventem and later at Isabelle Arpin. Together, they deliver a cuisine of conviction, where the only arguments are top-quality ingredients, impeccable cooking, and precise seasoning.
Proof of this can be found in dishes such as the Hendrick’s-style confit salmon with tangy vegetable garnish, dilled curd cheese from De Vriese farm; flame-seared red mullet from our coasts with butternut freshness and Piedmont hazelnuts under a citrus cloud; pan-seared Landes duck foie gras with cuttlefish and a red cabbage gastrique; childhood-favourite ham and cheese pasta, elevated with truffle; roasted Corrèze sweetbread with baker’s yeast, vin jaune emulsion, Cévennes onions, and hay-smoked potato espuma; pearly cod fillet with a variation on carrot; a reinvented bœuf Rossini with the chef’s selected sirloin; and Port-en-Bessin scallops with stuffed cabbage, Grevenbroecker cheese, and buckwheat.
This bold and harmonious cuisine is beautifully paired with a finely curated wine list by Gaëtan Poels. A brilliant self-taught sommelier, he is equally at ease with French terroir wines as with unique finds from around the world.
In a world that often seems jaded, where everything has been seen and done, the dedication of these men is heartwarming. With every service, they offer a delightful moment outside of time.
LD